A Day with the "Warriors" of the Open Sea

TP - "A boat only returns to the shore when its holds are filled with fish. Even when it comes ashore, it's just for a day to load ice, unload fish trays, mend and repair nets, check machinery, and then quickly cast off to venture back into the open sea. The life of coastal residents is challenging, a struggle that has persisted for generations," said Captain Trần Văn Định. The fishing journeys of the village's fishermen can either end empty-handed or with the holds teeming with seafood. Tossed and fragile like the sea... After nearly 10 days living as fishermen, we experienced life at sea and regarded them as the "warriors" of the open sea

Part 1: Setting Sail

After several contacts and waiting, we finally received a call from Mr. Trần Quang Vệ - the Party Secretary of Quỳnh Long commune, Quỳnh Lưu district, Nghệ An province. As we were well-prepared in advance, our belongings were neatly packed in backpacks.

According to Mr. Vệ's arrangement, we would board the fishing vessel NA 90567 TS. This boat operates with a net and fishes in the Gulf of Tonkin fishing grounds. "The boat stays away from the shore, only returning to the dock for a day. The crew has lunch, takes a short break, then sets sail again," said Mr. Trần Quang Vệ. At this time, it was the beginning of the month, and fishermen needed to make the most of the time at sea because, by mid-month, when the full moon rises, fishing with lights becomes ineffective. That period is reserved for rest and family time for the fishermen.

In the early afternoon, we arrived at the Lạch Quèn fishing port (Quỳnh Thuận commune, Quỳnh Lưu district). The fishing boat NA 90567 TS was anchored at the dock, and hundreds of ice blocks were being crushed by sailors and loaded into the ship. The scorching summer sun made the sailors "sweat as if it were their bathwater." Many sailors, with their faces defiantly against the wind, revealed their darkened skin and robust bodies, a testament to their resilience against the harsh weather conditions.

After a brief conversation with us, the sailors returned to their tasks. Stepping onto the boat, Mr. Vệ introduced Captain Trần Văn Định and didn't forget to wish us a good journey. At this point, I noticed that the captain had a slender figure, but his demeanor exuded confidence and reassurance towards those around him. Not wanting to disrupt Captain Định's work, we strolled around the boat, observing the activities. As pre-programmed, each sailor carried out their tasks rhythmically: some loaded stones into the hold, others coiled fishing lines, and some checked equipment before the boat left the dock.

The fishing boat resides at the Lạch Quèn port.

On the shore, wives and children prepared necessities such as meat, vegetables, fruits, and, especially, clean water to sustain their husbands and fathers during their time at sea. Bidding farewell to a husband's departure for the open sea, the wives perennially experienced a mixture of anxiety, anticipation, and familiarity. The husbands set out to fish, earning an income to support the family's livelihood, while the wives stayed at home, caring for the children and the house, and going shopping at local markets. Their time together was during the full moon time. Their hands deftly picked each strand of vegetables, arranged bags of fruits and tubers in the boat's kitchen. Once finished, the women checked the water containers to see if they were full, poured water into the tanks, and ensured that blankets and pillows were intact, clean, and neatly arranged.

Seeing us observing attentively, Captain Định turned back and said, "Fishing with a net, like the boats of our fellow villagers, is very demanding. Due to the nature of using lights on the boat to lure fish, we must take advantage of the time before the full moon rises. Once the full moon is up, the fish scatter everywhere, and using the light to attract them becomes ineffective. A boat only returns to the shore when its holds are filled with fish. Even when it comes ashore, it's just for a day to load ice, unload fish trays, mend and repair nets, check machinery, and then quickly cast off to venture back into the open sea. The life of coastal residents is challenging, a struggle that has persisted for generations!"